What to do in Paris this Autumn (2023)
Also some thoughts on the four day work week and productivity.
I returned from my book tour last May feeling a bit exhausted from all the constant running around. A year of book writing and managing a business left me creatively deficient, so I decided to start working only 4 days a week. Fridays became my day to not do any work at all. This probably sounds absurd considering I work for myself, out of my home, and not at a big company with many employees. But the reality is that when you work for yourself, sometimes you end up working around the clock because you think you have to or don’t know how to not work.
Creative people need to take time off from creating. To be productive you must stop producing from time to time. I believe this is integral to creating and producing. In my book JOIE, I talk about the importance of learning être, the french word for to be, instead of constantly need to do, or faire in French. So many of us are obsessed with productivity, the feeling that time is money, and that “wasting time” is one of the worst things we could do. Is time actually wasted? (Interesting question to dive deeply into another day).
I just started reading Jenny Odell’s book How to Do Nothing: Resisting the Attention Economy where she talks about how we need to take back our own attention and time. We have to learn how to do this and then consistently put it into practice.
This brings me back to the four day work week, which is really catching on in many other countries. Companies in Belgium, Portugal, the UK, and Japan have found this helps combat burnout, boost morale, encourage a healthier work-life balance and in some cases has improved productivity by 40%. Longer weekends mean more time to see friends, travel, explore or rest.
I try to spend my Fridays checking out exhibitions, being a flâneuse in one of my favorite neighborhoods, or checking out any interesting event happening in Paris. (Full disclosure: sometimes I spend Fridays on my couch lusciously “doing nothing,” which is actually “doing a lot.”) If you live here or are planning to visit in the next few months, I have curated a list below for design and culture lovers with exhibitions and events happening this Autumn. I highly encourage you to take Fridays off to explore in your own city as well. How do you feel about implementing your own four day work week if you work for yourself? What would you do with that extra day? Share in the comments please. I would love to know what you think about this. And if there are any cool exhibitions in your city you can leave that in the comments as well to share with others in our community.
Be sure to save this list or share it with a friend. And if I add anything, I’ll restack this post in notes so you know about the updates.
P.s. Working on a design lovers restaurant guide next and also really want to share addresses and tips from my past Summer travels.
Museum Exhibitions
Alaïa / Grès. Au-Delà de la Mode
At Fondation Azzedine Alaia
September 11, 2023- February 11, 2024
More info here.
I have always been in love with Madame Grès because of how she brilliantly constructed her garments like a sculptor with such precision and draping on the body. Alaïa was inspired by her work and in some cases, I would argue that he flat out copied her style and techniques. (I can’t blame him seeing as I hired a tailor to recreate one of her dresses for my wedding dress.) An unexpected highlight to this exhibition was seeing Alaïa atelier that has remained untouched from the day he died.
Azzedine Alaia Couturier Collectionneur
at Palais Galliera
September 27, 2023 - January 21, 2024
More info here.
I was shocked to learn at the Alaïa/Grès expo that Alaïa had a private costume collection of over 20,000 pieces. He is the largest collector of pieces by some of the major couturiers like Jean Patou, Balenciaga, Grès, Vionnet and Schiapparelli to name a few.
Mode et Sport, D’un Podium à L’autre
September 20, 2023 - April 7, 2024
At Museé des Arts Décoratifs
More info here.
La Mode en Mouvement
At Palais Galliera
June 16, 2023 - September 7, 2025
More info here.
With the Olympics coming to Paris next year, I look forward to checking out the above two exhibitions about fashion and sports especially after my grad school interests/obsesssion in Jean Patou and his contribution to women’s sport clothing. Chanel often gets too much credit when he greatly contributed and I hope these shows will reflect that. I will report back.
Mark Rothko
At the Fondation Louis Vuitton
October 18, 2023- April 2, 2024
More info here.
Mark Rothko’s work always makes its way to my mood boards because I like how his color stories mix into my inspirations so I am excited to see this show and learn more.
Gertrude Stein and Pablo Picasso: The Invention of Language
At the Musee du Luxembourg
September 13, 2023 - January 28, 2024
More info here.
In commemoration of the 50th anniversary of Pablo Picasso’s death there are many exhibitions around the world dedicated to the artist and his close friends and collaborators. Gertrude Stein was a fascinating character on the expat scene and this exhibition gives us a chance to learn more about their famous friendship.
La Collection. Oeuvres Choisies
At Musée Picasso
August 29, 2023- March 3, 2024
More info here.
Picasso. Dessiner à l’Infini
At the Centre Pompidou
October 18, 2023 - January 22, 2024
More info here.
You must get to the Centre Pompidou at least a few times before it closes in 2025 for 5 years of maintenance and Picasso’s drawings have always been endlessly fascinating.
Le Paris de la modernité (1905 - 1925)
at the Petit Palais
November 14, 2023 - April 14, 2024
More info here.
This description really excites me, “Through fashion, cinema, photography, painting, sculpture and drawing, as well as dance, design, architecture and industry embodying this modernity at work, the exhibition brings to life the wild creativity of 1905-1925, a period when Paris shone with an artistic and cultural aura that continues to dazzle us today.” And a big bonus will be going early so I can sit solo at the breathtaking cafe there, which I mentioned in my book.
La Galerie Dior
There is a permanent exhibition that is worth revisiting, but reserving tickets in advance is highly recommended because slots are often sold out.
More info here.
Amedeo Modigliani. A painter and his dealer
At Musée Orangerie
September 20, 2023 - January 15, 2024
More info here.
Naples à Paris
At the Louvre
June 7, 2023 - January 8, 2024
More info here.
Chagall à l’oeuvre. Dessins, céramiques et sculptures 1945 - 1970
at Centre Pompidou
Octobre 4, 2023 - February 26, 2024
More info here.
Drawings, ceramics, and sculptures that show Chagall’s process in designing costumes and stage curtains for Igor Stravinsky’s ballet “l’Oiseau de feu,” and for the ceiling of the Opera Garnier.
Iris Van Herpen. Sculpting The Senses
At Musée des Arts Décoratifs
November 29, 2023 - April 28, 2024
More info here.
Would love to learn more about this avant garde Dutch designer.
All the period rooms which are part of the permanent collection.
at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs Musee
More info here.
These rooms are part of the permanent collection and I will dedicate an entire post these rooms soon, however if you are there to see the Iris Van Herpen then make time to go see the period rooms of Jeanne Lanvin, Hôtel de Serves, and the Art Nouveau galleries.
Hôtel de la Marine
More info here.
This relatively new museum is another space that I happily return to for it’s beauty. I advise you to read this New York Times article before you go to truly understand why this restoration and reopening of this space is a conservation masterpiece.
Musée Nissim de Camondo
More info here.
EVENTS TO CHECK OUT:
Foire du Chatou
September 22- October 1, 2023
More info here.
A bit late sharing this, but I visit the Foire du Chatou twice a year and already spent last Friday filling my wagon with treasures.
Fête des puces
October 5-7, 2023
the party is October 5th from 7 to midnight
More info here.
I have been to the fêtes des puces a few times and enjoyed being at the flea market in the evenings. All the vendors have nibbles and drinks, the restaurants are overflowing and there is music everywhere and such a great vibe. This year’s theme is Puces & Nature - La Nature dans les Arts Décoratifs so this will be interesting too how everyone merchandises or decorates to keep with the theme.
Paris Photo
November 9-12, 2023
More info here.
Art Basel and Paris +
October 20 - 22, 2023
October 19th is the vernissage from 6-8pm by invitation only or with purchased tickets
More info here.
A few weeks ago, I learned that Art Basel took over what used to be FIAC so now it is Art Basel and Paris +. (There are some scandalous articles online about how this take over/push out came to be.) It will be good to get out and explore the fair as well as the free art in open spaces across the city.
Thank you for making this list. It is wonderful for someone who is new to Paris.
I love that Musée Nissim de Camondo made your cut; it’s one of my all-time favourites