The Monthly Joie Review: October 2023 Recap
Sharing all the people, places and things that might bring you some joy from a jam packed October.
I woke up on the last day of October and realized how truly jam packed these past four weeks were. While I know that I have a tendency to overextend myself and need be reminded of my own lessons on “just being,” there was so much joie de vivre to be found every single day. Plus I always find ways to get my relaxing moments or alone time in the midst of madness
This monthly post will be available to all subscribers as a monthly roundup full of wonderful people, places and experiences from the previous month that might bring you joy in France or elsewhere. As you know I love to wander, travel, and be in fellowship with people so sometimes these roundups might be longer than other months. You can always skip to the bottom if you want to get the essential notes with links as I won’t hyperlink through out the post so you won’t feel distracted.
For paid subscribers, in between these monthly roundups, I will share more in depth guides, articles, and insider tips on some of the places I mention.
I hope my jam packed October brings you a few ideas to save.
Bisous xx,
Ajiri
October might be my favorite month because we’re past the anxiety and emotions of la rentrée (back-to-school) but not quite at the busyness of the holiday party season. It’s not too cold and not too hot. Depending on where you live, one day might be chilly sweater weather or another oddly warm. It’s the final month before our days feel shorter. I like the “in-betweenness” of it all so maybe that’s why I seem to get out as much as possible before hibernation season.
The month started with Paris Fashion Week and ended with the Vacances des Toussaints, All Saint’s Fall school holidays, so lots to share in this recap.
Although I no longer work in the fashion world, I tend to pack in a lot of dinners and drinks with friends and old colleagues visiting that week. I started off with drinks in the Marais with my friend and fashion designer, Victor Glemaud. We wanted cocktails at a place that wasn’t too sceney but where we could see people and actually hear each other talk. (And it needed to be semi-cute as well). My friend Lindsey suggested The Cambridge Public House, which I had walked by a million times but never stepped foot into. We ended up ordering bubbly instead of cocktails but you should file this one away for a great people watching spot. There are a few couches and tables, which I imagine are hard to snag in the warmer months, that are lined up facing the street. Between the cigarette swigging high school kids, the models, fashion editors, and buyers going back and forth on that little street, it’s a perfect spot.
My first meal was at Le Square Trousseau with another designer friend and his family. Lately this spot has become one of my faves when I need elevated French classics. It doesn’t often make it onto “the lists” in magazines or blogs, which is fine by me. I feel like it delivers but with more vibe, flavor, and is one of the rare bistros with continuous service. (Typically most restaurants, cafes or bistros only serve lunch from 12-2 and dinner 7-10).
The staff is always friendly and I have never had trouble getting a reservation a day or two in advance. The decor is chic with typical 19th century Parisian moldings, mosaic tile floors, and antiques. You can sit on the rather wide terrace, inside, or they have a private room for large groups. The Square Trousseau park is across the street if you want to let your slightly older kids run free or take a fidgety one for a spin.
When you sit down, they bring complimentary salted butter and radishes to the table while you wait to order. I usually go for the moules gratinées (baked mussels), the cheeseburger, or the miso salmon. It’s French classics with a slightly asian twist on a few menu items. My new favorite item on the menu is called Le Tigre Qui Pleure, which translates to the tiger who cries. It’s sliced marinated steak served with fresh Thai herbs and a spicy dipping sauce. You can’t go wrong with what you order but just be sure to add a side of shoe string french fries and save room for cheese and dessert.
My dear friend Michelle is a true foodie and not the take pics just for insta kind. She loves to cook, eat, learn, and most of all the pleasure and joy good food and the experience bring. A few months before she arrives, we usually start texting about what the new spots are or places I have been recently that she should revisit. This summer she met the chef Mory Sacko in New York, they exchanged numbers, which she shared with me and I boldly texted him to ask for a dinner reservation. (I would normally not do this or recommend doing it but I am highly interested in getting to know this amazing chef like the rest of the world.) He actually wrote back and gave us a table at his Michelin star restaurant Mosuke in the 14th, which is next to impossible to book.
The 9 course meal (€190) is inspired by African and Japanese food with French influences. Every plate that comes out is like nothing you could expect or imagine on your own or at another restaurant. The 9 courses are really more like 13 or 14 with all the amuse bouches and extras. It’s not a cheap meal and it’s not a short meal either. I honestly had a hard time enjoying the last 2 courses because I was insanely full. However I admit that sometimes tasting menus are hard for me after the 6th course. That said, I will probably go back because I never learn my lesson and enjoy trying different flavors and the dramatic long experience of it all. Maybe next time I’ll try the lunch options of 4 courses (€80) or 6 courses (€130) so then I can walk it off in the afternoon.
The new Hotel Le Grand Mazarin has finally opened and I plan to get in there, learn more about the design and share that for another post. But during fashion week, my friend Amanda and I visited the bar and the restaurant Babouel, which serves Ashkenazi cuisine that was so delicious.
I have been a devoted Farrow & Ball client since I painted my dinning room walls Dix Blue and my salon Elephant’s Breath, when I moved to Paris 13 years ago. I was invited to a lunch to celebrate their new collaboration with the fashion designer Christopher John Rogers, who is known for his bold colorful dresses. The collection has 12 new paint colors and 3 wallpaper designs that fit so perfectly with both brands that aren’t afraid to play with color.
A few years ago Christopher John did a collab with Target and luckily I was in Nashville and ran to the store like everyone else only to find ravished racks shortly after the store opened. I grabbed the two dresses left that weren’t even my size but I decided I would have to make them work because I love his style so much. I walked into that lunch and was giddy to meet Christopher John, who turned out to be a very sweet and shy southern boy. Charlotte Cosby, the creative director of Farrow & Ball, is a more outgoing personality but two constantly looked at each other and seemed to giggle and speak without gestures and glances. Absolutely the sign of synergy. And to my surprise the chef of this lunch was my new friend from earlier in the week, Mr. Mory Sacko. (I was so pleased that he remembered me and took time to chat even though he needed to get back to the kitchen.) The artist Blue Farrier was also on site using colors from the collection to paint everyone’s portraits. I wasn’t familiar with her work and have now started following her and love her style.
I ended Paris Fashion week with a book signing for A Year in the French Style : Interiors and Entertaining by Antoinette Poisson, which was photographed by my friend Ruth Ribeaucourt, who I met when I crashed a party she was throwing in Menerbes three years ago, and co-authored by the founders of the brand Vincent Farelly and Jean-Baptiste Martin. I am excited to dive into this beautiful book but also I highly recommend you visit the Antoinette Poisson shop, which is in a very charming little courtyard in the 11th and next door to a lovely antique shop, which I will profile in the coming months also.
Then a few weeks of travel began. It started with a 24 hour trip to Gordes in Provence to set up an apéro and chat for a retreat group of 11 women. (By the way, if you or a group need help planning a retreat don’t hesitate to reach out to me). I took the train to Avignon, where my husband who is filming a movie in the region left our car at the long term parking area. Of course I could’ve taken a taxi but I recently learned something very interesting about the taxi situation in Avignon.
There are a certain number of taxis allowed to operate based on the population of the city. Avignon is a much smaller city than Aix-en-Provence, so has less taxis. However this doesn’t reflect tourism or the amount of people that live…say in the Luberon…which is in the middle between the two cities. If you take the train to Avignon or Aix-en-Provence, the drive to Gordes is an hour. However you most likely will wait a long time for a taxi in Avignon, as I have before, versus the multitude of taxis waiting at the Aix station. A random but potentially useful taxi tangent to share a very important tip if you are taking the train from Paris and going to the Luberon.
After picking up my car, I drove an hour to my hotel, the new La Ferme du Huppe in Gordes. In September, I visited for a friend’s 50th birthday bash cocktail and dinner and was curious to know more because most of the hotels around Gordes are pretty grand and pricey. This little farmhouse is cozy but still maintains the big bastide feels with a restaurant, pool and outdoor bar. It was very charming and I recommend saving it in your files, but you will need a car to get to the center of the village or to visit the surrounding areas.
The purpose of my 24 hour trip was to set up an apéro-dinatoire for a lovely woman named Sharon that I met on Instagram. She asked me to style a table and talk to her group about my book JOIE and personal story. Even though we met via social media, Sharon has become quite special to me because she is so generous with her love and encouragement. She also introduced me to the music of her cousin Alexis Ffrench who played at the Coronation Concert of King Charles and I am now a big fan. I am trying to get to a concert of his in London because I find his music so soothing and full of hope. But back to the apéro, which also filled me with all the good vibes because it’s wonderful to learn how this book has inspired and influenced people from around the world.
I returned to Paris for four days, then packed up and headed out to meet this year’s group for The Good Life Retreat. The day before I left, I had lunch with my friend Penny who also assisted me on this retreat at Le Train Bleu. I shared this in the book and many times on my Instagram, but there is something about moving from the chaos of the Gare de Lyon into this Belle Epoque jewel box of a restaurant that brings me so much joy so dropping it again here. The painted fresco ceilings, the big windows, rolling Christofle carts and all the movement always make me feel as if I have time traveled.
After a two hour and 45 minute train and a one hour drive, I arrived at the house in Saint-Saturnin-les-Apt, which is the darling town where my friend Lise and Eric opened the restaurant Le Saint Hubert. I am already working on a full retreat recap post for paid subscribers so stay tuned for that.
After a jam packed delightful week I returned to Paris for 24 hours to change bags, pick my kids up and we were off on the TGV again to the beautiful sea side town of Rayol-Canadel-sur-Mer. This was actually my second time visiting this corner of what I thought is the Cote d’Azur since it’s 20 minutes from Saint Tropez but is technically the Var. My first time was last year during our family sabbatical living in Aix-en-Provence. We spontaneously followed friends for a weekend trip at Le Bailli de Suffren. We never left the hotel and I didn’t learn anything about the town or the surrounding area because I was very content locked away in that beautiful freshly renovated hotel.
This time around we were 14 people in an Airbnb with perfect sea views and 7 days to explore. This trip and this Rayol deserves it’s own post so stay tuned but for now keep this town and the Hotel Le Bailli in your files.
Now I am writing you from Avignon and the last week of Vacances des Toussaints where I have been trying to rest up and catch up, but might need to venture out to finally visit the Papal Palace and maybe a little drive to Arles.
I look forward to a few more travels to come in November and the joy that gathering and fellowship bring with Thanksgiving. This month was packed and there is so much more that I want to share with you this coming month. In the midst of world turmoil and suffering, we have to still carve out a little moment to take care of ourselves, each other and find joy.
The notes:
The Cambridge Public House
8 Rue de Poitou
75003 Paris
Visit their website here
Mosuke
11 Rue Raymond Losserand
75014 Paris
Visit their website here
Boubale
In the Hôtel Le Grand Mazarin
17 rue de la Verrerie
75004 Paris
Visit their website here
Azzedine Alaïa Expo
18 Rue de la Verrerie
75004 Paris
Visit their website here
More on exhibitions in Paris this Fall here
Farrow & Ball X Christopher John Rogers
Check out all the colors and more information here
Blue Farrier, artist and designer
Follow her work online here
Antoinette Poisson
12 Rue St Sabin
75011 Paris
Visit their website here
Their new book “A Year in The French Style” can be found here.
La Ferme de la Huppe
Hameau des Pourquiers
570 route de Goult, RD 156
84220 Gordes
Visit their website here
Le Train Bleu
Paris Gare de Lyon
Pl. Louis-Armand, Hall 1
75012 Paris
*Lunch reservation highly recommended but it’s also possible to eat at the bar or just have tea and coffee.
Visit their website here
Hôtel Le Bailli de Suffren
15 Avenue des Américains
83820 Rayol-Canadel-sur-Mer
*This is very much a seasonal hotel so I recommend calling in advance if you are going off season. My first trip here was in May and it had just opened for the season.
Visit their website here
Le Saint Hubert
1 Place de la Fraternité
84490 Saint Saturnin les Apt, France
Visit their website here
Thank you…