This past weekend Paris had a heatwave, then immediately dipped into dark, rainy sweater weather and I am loving it. We have another week until it’s officially my favorite season, but I am already there mentally. This Fall I have a lot of exciting things happening and one of them is my retreat to Provence next month. (If you’re a paid subscriber you will the first to know when new retreats are open.) Many people ask me why I don’t host retreats in the Spring (considering it but scared of the rain), Summer (too darn hot), or Winter (I barely leave home). The answer for me is because Fall is the sweet spot in Paris and Provence.
I shared this post over on Madame de la Maison last year and bringing it over here with some minor changes and additions as a reminder of why you should plan a trip to Provence in the Fall. (I am also considering a post soon about Paris in the Fall).
P.s. I will be sharing some of the great places I traveled to this summer soon for you to save and plan for next year, but the sweater weather just put me in the mood for this post.
P.p.s. Working on a post about things to do, eat and see for all you design lovers traveling or armchair traveling to Paris soon for Art Basel and Paris Fashion Week.
Thank you for subscribing and beyond excited to share more here soon!
I am often asked what is the best season to visit the South of France. It’s hard to choose since I have been to Provence in every season and there is always something to love. For example the winter gets pretty chilly but that sun brings the good vibes and makes a nice escape from Paris, the Spring shows us all the blooms and it gets warm enough to head to the beach and the crowds haven’t arrived quite yet, and the Summer of course is popular for the lavender fields but can be extremely hot and crowded. My favorite season is hands down the early Fall and the months of September and October.
Here are 10 reasons to visit Provence in the Fall. (Full disclaimer: I admit that many of the reasons apply year round but reason number 1 and 2 coupled with the fact you kind of get the place to yourself, should be all you need to agree with me.)
1. The Weather
The weather in the Fall is close to perfection. The days are bright and sunny, while most evenings bring a little chill that require a light jacket or sweater. I find this perfect so I can explore during the days with the sun on my SPF-protected face and then get cozy with a glass of wine and good conversations when the sun goes down. So what should you pack? You can really wear anything you would in the summer months but bring a sweater, a coat, or a light cape. If you like to do a dramatic costume change for the evening then I recommend long sleeves. In the crazy climate change times we live in, the sweet spot: layers.
You should also know about the Mistral, which is a crazy wind that randomly shows up some days (year-round) and can last for a day or more. It can be intense and rather annoying so on these days a sweater is absolutely necessary all day and so is activity indoors. People who don’t live in the South of France say it is the punishment for having the best weather in France most of the time.
2. The Colors
The autumn season brings such rich hues of yellow, orange, pink and red colors. I love seeing these colors creeping up houses in the villages and in the vineyards that are days or weeks away from the harvest.
3. The Markets
Almost every little village and city has a market day where you can buy fresh fruit and vegetables from local farmers. The sellers are friendly and will share their knowledge and expertise if you ask, and sometimes if you don’t ask. Moments at the market (food and flea) bring me joie de vivre because you connect with people in the region, get ideas for cooking, but also find special treasures to pack home in your suitcase. Market days can be wet and chilly yet charming in Paris during the Fall, but it is usually a sunny affair in the South which I appreciate.
4. The Provençal Architecture
There is a reason so many foreigners flock to the South for vacations as well as in search of birthday and wedding venues. The architecture and the gardens are to die for! I enjoy seeing the styles of houses and shops that seem very typical to the South of France. The village houses are slightly different from the countryside villas but they all share the common theme of colorful shutters, big beautiful doors, and a very specific style of landscape architecture with cypress trees, thyme and sage bushes, and olive tree lined paths. I could photograph doors all day and never get tired of them. (I will probably do a deep dive on this style of architecture and interiors soon.)
5. The Villages
Provence is full of tiny villages with windy streets and each one is as charming as the next. Some are on hilltops, some end as quickly as they begin, some seem like ghost towns, while others are bustling with life and activity. What do all these villages have in common? They are all full of mystery, charm, fascination, and history. And when you visit in the Fall, after the Summer crowds have passed through, you feel like as if you have the place to yourself to explore and fully fall into your feelings of joie and delight.
6. The Food and Wine
It doesn’t rain too much in Provence but the unique vegetation and landscape produce such a rich and specific food and wine culture. There are many vineyards, which somehow make me smile as I drive through the country seeing the symmetrical rows of vines. Rosé is the Queen wine of the region so you will find that on the menu year-round, but there are wonderful whites and reds to explore as well. I enjoy a lot of seafood and fish dishes, thanks to the proximity to the Mediterranean but also love all the seasonal dishes squashs and cozy dishes that show up on menus some of my favorite restaurants like the St. Hubert, Le Pigonnet, La Terrasse, and Le Bistrot du Paradou.
7. The People
I enjoy how friendly locals in Provence are. I find they’re always willing to chat and move slower than people from other regions. Perhaps it is all that time they spend enjoying slow lunches and the sunny weather but it’s very pleasant to experience. If your ear can detect the difference between the Southern accent and a Parisian one, it’s a bonus, because it’s quite charming. I love that Provence is full of expats as well, because they all have such interesting stories about why they decided to move and call the South of France their home. It’s no surprise that I hope to join them one day.
8. Slow Lunches
Nobody in the South of France seems to be in a hurry. When they sit for dinner and especially for lunch…they sit, the loathe, they linger and they enjoy. It’s never a quick affair to savor their meal, their wine, and the people they have gathered at the table with.
9. The History
Provence has been a source of inspiration and fascination for so many American expats and French artists. Why? Because it is dripping in history and inspiring landscapes. There are roman ruins, turquoise waters, rolling hills, medieval villages…so much to draw inspiration from and all while taking it in a slower pace of life. A few of my favorite fascinating artists and writers who lived or spent significant time in the South are Julia Child, MFK Fisher, James Baldwin, Peter Mayle, Cezanne, Ernest Hemingway, James Joyce, Nina Simone and of course Picasso.
10. One region with many different areas to explore
The South of France is a region of France that is made of different areas: The Cote d’Azur and Provence. And within Provence it breaks down further into the Luberon, the Alpilles, the Var, the Vaucluse. It’s hard to choose a favorite and you usually don’t have to choose because you can cross from one area to the other easily by car. You can go antique shopping in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue in the morning, stop for a cafe and snap some pictures in Roussillon (the “Colorado of France”), drive past some vineyards almost ready for the harvest, then stop in the little city of Aix-en-Provence for lunch, before driving 35-55 minutes to Marseille or Cassis for a swim and dinner.
Did you enjoy this post? If it inspired you in any way, share it with a friend as a subtle hint to plan a trip to Provence together soon. Merci for all the love and support.